Tomas Maier is a man of few words who doesn’t need much to say when designing for Bottega Veneta. The clothes spoke for themselves at the runway. What designer wouldn’t appreciate not having to give overly details of their collection for the press to comprehend? Just as we’ve seen over the past few days, designers (an adequate amount) have chosen to keep things classic and subtle for fall/winter 2013 collections. At Bottega Veneta, there were no exceptions.
The looks were sleek and conservative, appropriate for a weekend daywear at the office. Suits were tailored and effortless compared to last seasons refined patch worked designs. The tactical colors – blacks, grays, and navys, emphasized the clean details that needed to be caught. There was enough to pick around from single or double breasted suits, to three piece ensembles that came with narrow or wider lapels.
Pants, slimmer in construction, had a perfect length that added masculinity to the overall look. Coats, such as a peacoat shown at Veneta, came in a luxurious version - slim and fitted - compared to the average boxy version I've seen before. And mustard overcoat numbers were some to have been deceived by; buttons were layered underneath.
Leather needed to be a must coming from Maier. Polished leather pants, jackets, and shirts, added that touch of urbanism Maier is best at performing, keeping that dark consistency men would seek to add to their next fall/winter wardrobe collection. I am not of fan of leather pants, but here Mr. Maier drove me crazy for one. The consistency of the shine control and thickness is a very risky thought for most men, but here everything was perfectly controlled. Even the leather suits were a must have, and probably ones to watch next season during fashion week among the dapper guys in the streets.
Knits aided in maintaining a youthful tone done luxuriously well. Accessories were another hit as well. Bags made out of exotic skins, sent a message that men should be opting for now. Wing tip lace ups finished marking Maier’s triumph.
If any, I am curious to see how long this sophisticated collection will last on the shelves of several retail stores and select boutiques when it comes out. Nicely done Mr. Maier.
Vunk! This will become the new word of the fashion dictionary – punk style mixed with the sex symbol of Versace.
Versace literally nailed it this season. The manner of turning punk into something vunk was beyond perfection. All items – mink skirts, tight fitted vinyl pants, and nail dresses – were convincing enough for any women who loves to take risks. There were elements of Gianni’s past work except they were modernized for today’s glamour chicks. It seemed Donatella wanted to be original…….and she was.
What does a dangerous woman look like in Gucci? For fall,
Giannini took advantage of her femme fatale and converted her into the dark, guarded,
and sexual assassin. The introduction of the first model wearing an appliqué ensemble
– paired with mesh leggings, leather gloves, and booties – provided a
mysterious, but in a certain way, sensual mood. The use of rounded shoulders on
most jackets gave that special touch the “dangerous woman” would port.
I was intrigued by the fact Gianni focused on new concepts
for the brand – in a very Gucci manner. She’s become so strong in what she does
that when describing something in this collection I can’t help but use the term
Gucci to reference to what I’m saying.
Gianni was feeling for dark bolder colors – a decision I
thought was perfectly made. This time, she decided to shift around her beloved
70s era, and move into a more constrained (not really) 40s theme. Suits
reminded me of those Dior was famous for – narrowing of the waist and wider
hips. Dresses – such as a cyan colored one in a bateau neckline – kept the
consistency of the element. There were not copies of Dior, for Giannini made
sure her designs appeared more explicit than usual.
Python – applied on suits, dresses, and skirts – heated up
the catwalk in a very sexual behavior. A shiny python, peplum skirtsuit deeply
sliced in mesh was hands down one of the best suits for a woman.
Interpretations of houndstooth in glittery shades and colors
provided a unique element to the collection. The form in which she layered one suit
with a metallic python turtleneck reminded me of aspects a dangerous woman must
have – thick skin to fulfill her needs.
As stated, several silhouettes resembling that of the late 40s may have seemed too covered for the Gucci woman; maybe because they weren’t as
body fitted. Well, Gianni shut me up when evening dresses were introduced.
Dresses were beyond dangerous; so Gucci I would state. The
use of mesh in these looks – detailed in patterns with sequins, feathers, and
silk fringe – were striking beautiful. Silk was superbly shiny and screamed
luxury.
By the way, if you ever want to go for an innovative jumpsuit, look no further – Gucci has one for you.
