Spring 2014 RTW Shows: Cushnie et Ochs, and Rag & Bone
We know Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, of Cushnie et Ochs, excel at creating sexy skin-tight, angular cut-out dresses. They've created a renowned signature based on these detailed dresses, celebrities - Selena Gomez, Katie Couric, Eva Longoria - and even the First Lady have been a fan of. They seek ways to take sexiness to a new modern level, but they may now be getting tired of people portraying them as the simple 'sexy cut-out dress' brand.
It was not so much the case anymore as we saw at their new Spring 2014 presentation. They stepped into newer territories that haven't been particularly familiar to the brand, but were invigoratingly sexy and lustrous to watch.
Their new collection derived from 'straight jackets and strapping details,' as the designers pointed out. "Lots of belting, binding, and slices of skin," were more than enough to see the designers taking details to another chapter in the brand. Karlie Kloss opened the show with a white skin-exposed (waist and upper shoulder) dress strapped by elastic that referenced to those hems in jacket. Seamless knitwear pieces made a strong entrance here. It was interesting to also have seen them put a noteworthy effort in their pants. It showed everyone they too are capable of making a great white crispy-ribbed pant look sexy in all its form; another favorite was a black buckled detailed pant. Prints made a second appearance that also put them on the spotlight of innovation. And their expansion of sexy one-piece (one white buckled detailed piece was everything), and two-piece swimsuits were another big score for the duo.
Other fabrics - sheer, snakeskin, and silk - expanded the choice of their signature viscose fabric. It was just not about sexy, exposed body-hugging silhouettes anymore, but refined sensuality. Colors - white, gray, light brown, purple, and black - may still have been of few color palettes, but felt high-end designer without a doubt. If the designers were taking new action into their label, and judging from this collection, one can't disagree they're going along the right path to a bigger success. Can we pre-order now?
Rag & Bone designers, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, seemed to have shifted their tomboy signature looks into a more feminine yet youthful approach. The brand has been popular among young teenagers for quite a while, but not as much amongst editors and fashion critics. At this point of their career, the designers know who their main clients are, and it was obvious who their Spring 2014 womenswear collection was made for.
The new collection had way more feminine pastel colors that could be a sensation next season - peach, turquoise, crisp whites, lavender, pink - and of course, black. It was interesting to have seen them take on more silky and flow-y fabrics that looked cool as the models walked down the runway. Last season (fall 2013), the duo took the crown with their menswear inspired fabrics, which was an easy task, given that the designers English tailoring techniques make up part of their label. This season though was more about relaxed tailoring, but kinky, when it came to those cropped leather tops, dropped v-neck sweaters, sheer polos, and spaghetti strap slip-dresses. And when it came to their slouchy-fitted colored pants and blazers, you know a number of young girls would die for one of these.